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Now that Charles
Rousseau is 79 years old, his son, Eric, is
taking charge of one of Burgundy's most traditional
estates and making crucial changes. "I look
for the same style of wine, with the same finesse,
but perhaps with some more concentration," says
Eric Rousseau, 45. In the recently upgraded
winery, grapes are handled more gently than
in the past to preserve aromas and flavors.
With air conditioning installed last year, he
can now better control wine temperatures, from
fermentation through aging. He also delays malolactic,
or secondary, fermentation, in an effort to
make the wines taste "fatter". Experiments with
crop thinning that started in 1992 proved so
successful that Domaine Armand Rousseau has
applied the method to all of its 34.6 acres
of vineyards since 1999.. "We see a big difference
; there is less dilution in the wines," says
Rousseau. "The grapes are riper : we gain about
1 percent potential alcohol from the green harvest."
Eric's grandfather,
Armand, was a pioneer for estate bottling in
Burgundy, back in the 1930s, and one of the
first to sell wines in the United States after
Prohibition. After succeeding him, Charles introduced
stainless-steel fermentation tanks in Burgundy.
Today, the domaine makes 5,800 cases a year
and farms 20 acres of grands crus, from which
it makes 2,500 cases.
Most wines see little new oak.
The Gevrey Chambertin Les Cazetiers (85-89
points) offers black fruit and a
surprising silkiness of tannins.
Only 5 percent new oak us used to age the medium-bodied,
elegant Clos de la
Roche (85-89), which was made from
45-year-old vines and shows raspberry and spicy
notes.
The Gevrey-Chambertin
Lavaux St.-Jacques (85-89) is an
authentic-tasting premier cru without artifices
and has a silky midpalate.
New oak accounts for only 10 percent of Ruchottes-Chambertin
Clos des Ruchottes (90-94) an ethereal
Pinot Noir with loads of fresh red berry character,
spice and wonderful length.
The medium-bodied Mazis-Chambertin
(90-94) is a marvel of finesse, both
powerful and delicate. One hundred percent new
oak is used to age the following three wines.
Chambertin-Clos de
Bèze (90-94) is rich and thick,
with lots of black fruit and spicy oak.
Chambertin (90-94)
is complex, with black cherries and mineral,
showing soft and supple tannins - the sort of
harmony you expect from a top grand cru.
And the amazing Gevrey-Chambertin
Clos St.-Jacques (90-94), a premier
cru wine, rivals the grands crus that I tasted
from barrel ; it is loaded with spice and rich
fruit, with a long finish.
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