SPECIAL VERTICAL TASTINGS

Clive COATE'S THE VINE
Number 234, July 2004

CHAMBERTIN AND
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE

A Comprehensive Tasting
85 different samples of wines tasted in March 2004
Vintages 1999 to 1966

CHAMBERTIN 1999 - Fullish colour. Oaky and blackberry-flavoured on the nose. No lack of structure. Fullish body. Balanced. Laid back and classy. Not quite the concentration and depth and powerful intensity this wine usually has but very fine. Just a slight lack of fat. Very good grip nevertheless. Very fine indeed but not great. 2010-2030. 19.5.

CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1999 - Fullish colour. Rich, oaky nose. Lots of depth and class here. Full bodied, rich, oaky, concentrated and very lovely. Excellent grip. Slightly sweeter and more robust than Rousseau's Chambertin. Very long. 2011-2035. 19.5.

CHAMBERTIN 1998 - Fullish colour. Rich, fat, concentrated nose. Fullish, profound and balanced. Very ripe tannins. Abundantly rich and fruity. This is very delicious. Not up to the 1999 standard but not far short. Lovely sweet, intense finish. 2008-2030. 19.5.

CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1998 - Fullish colour. Fat, rich nose. Slightly spicier than Rousseau's Chambertin. Slightly sweaty too. Fullish body. But the tannins are not quite so sophisticated. Long and balanced. Very fine. 2009-2025. 19.5

CHAMBERTIN 1996 - Medium-full colour. Just about mature. Soft, succulent nose. Oaky, sweet and aromatic. Medium-full body. Soft acidity. Fresh and complex and subtle. Lovely fruit. Still a little raw but the tannins now soft. Very, very long and lovely. 2008-2020+. 19.5

CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1996 - Fullish colour. Some development. Fullish, opulent, rich and concentrated. Very lovely. Like the Chambertin more accessible than other 1996s. Fullish bodied, ripe, generous and seductive. Very vigorous. Balanced. Very long and very fine indeed. 2008-2020+. 18.0.

CHAMBERTIN 1993 - Medium-full colour. A little development. Brilliant nose. Gently oaky. Splendid concentration. Marvellous fruit and harmony. Indisputably great wine. Marvellous fruit. Fullish body. Now softening. Excellent harmony. Ripe. Succulent. Very, very long. Super. 2006-2030. 20.0

CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1993 - Fullish colour. Less developed than his Chambertin. A little more developed on the palate, though. Slightly less vigour and definition. Very high class nevertheless. Fullish bodied. Rich, very good tannin. Excellent grip and intensity. This is very, very lovely. Marvellous finish. 2006-2030. 19.5

CHAMBERTIN 1992 - Fullish, vigorous colour. Plum, gentle, fresh, oaky, attractive nose. Medium-full body. Aromatic. Clean. Balanced. Classy and harmonious. Very long. Very lovely for the vintage. Now-2010. 18.0

CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1992 - Fullish, vigorous colour. Similar to the Chambertin. Fresh, plump, gently oaky, but a slight touch of reduction. Not as classy. This gives an astringent feel on the palate. I've had better bottles. This in only fine. Now-2010. 17.5

CHAMBERTIN 1990 - Fullish, mature colour. Rich concentrated, gently oaky on the nose. Very high class. Lovely poise. Fullish, succulent, ripe and creamy. Very fresh. Very, very long and distinguished. A great wine. Very lovely long finish. Now ready. Now-2030. 20.0.

CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1990 - Fullish, mature colour. Slightly dumber on the nose than the Chambertin. Slightly spicier and sweeter. Slightly fuller, but less pure. Lots of grip and intensity. Very lovely. Will still improved. 2006-2030. 19.5

CHAMBERTIN 1989 - Full colour. Fuller and less developed than the 1990. Rather more rustic on the nose though. Aromatic. Rich, sweet and exotic, but very good grip. Long and fat and very lovely. A great 1989. Only just ready. Now-2025. 20.0.

CHAMBERTIN 1988 - Fullish, mature colour. Quite a firm nose. More austere than the 1990 or 1993. But not too lean. Fullish body. Lots of definition. Balanced, fresh and classy. Succulent and even opulent at the end. Gently oaky. Long. Very lovely. Now-2020. 19.5.

CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1988 - Fullish, mature colour. Fat, rich and more attractive than the Chambertin. As usual a little sweeter and a little more texture than the Chambertin. This is as good or even better. Very lovely. Very, very long. Excellent finish. Now-2020. 20.0.

CHAMBERTIN 1985 - Medium-full, fully mature colour. Much more vigour and substance on the nose than the colour would suggest. But just a little cooked. The Clos de Bèze is fresher and classier. Fullish body. Just a little lacking the usual Rousseau flair. It should be better. Good grip. Ripe and ample. But 'fine plus' rather than excellent. Now-2010. 18.0.

CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1985 - Medium-full, fully mature colour. Very lovely rich, Fullish, fresh, classy nose. This is very lovely. Ample, full, rich and balanced. Lots of depth. Really delicious. Lovely finish. Will keep well. Now-2015. 19.5.

CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1982 - Medium-full colour. No undue age. Plump, ripe, generous nose. Medium full body. Slightly sweet-sour. Plenty of interest. Good grip. This has no lack of class for a 1982. Very good indeed. Drink soon. 17.0.

CHAMBERTIN 1976 - Fresh-looking, medium-full colour. Succulent nose : poised, juicy, surprisingly attractive. None of the usual 1976 astringency. On the palate a little sweet and a little lightening up. Not as good and shorter on the palate than the nose would suggest. Very good. Drink soon. 16.0.

CHAMBERTIN 1969 - Medium-full colour. But quite old looking. Rich, full, distinguished nose. Lots of depth. Fullish, ample, oaky, fresh and balanced. Lots of vigour. Very lovely long finish. High class. Now-2010+. 19.5


December 2003

Clive Coates' Picks : 20 Great wines, money no object

Le Chambertin 1999
 Ripe, rich, profound and classy. Impeccable balance. Very long indeed. Just about as good as it gets (last tasted 27.06.03). 2010-2030.

Le Chambertin 1993
As always, an extra note of individuality, purity and class after the Clos de Bèze. A great wine (last tasted 26.03.03). 2006-2030.

Le Chambertin 1990
Real power and dimension. Splendid grip still. A great wine! (last tasted 11.06.00) Up to 2030



Clive COATE'S THE VINE
May 2003

Domaine Armand ROUSSEAU,
à Gevrey-Chambertin Master,
pages 35-40

Tasting of 1996, 1995, 1993, 1990 vintages. Wines sampled in London in December 2002.

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CLOS SAINT JACQUES 1996 - to drink 2004-2018 : Good Colour. Full, firm and rich. More austere than the 1995. Fullish body, the tannins now more or less mellow. Good grip. Lots of class and depth. Lots of energy. Very long and classy. Lovely complex fruit. Very fine.

CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1996 - to drink 2004-2016 : Less firm than the CLOS SAINT JACQUES. Ripe and ample and aromatic. Fullish bodied and rich on the palate. Not quite the vigour or grip at first of the CLOS SAINT JACQUES but plenty of acidity to follow-through. Slightly more clumsy though. I prefer the CLOS SAINT JACQUES. More definition at the end. Fine plus though.

LE CHAMBERTIN 1996 - to drink 2006-2020+ :Lovely rich nose. Very well covered tannins. Clearly the best of the three 1996s. Full bodied and very concentrated. Very classy. Excellent fruit. Vigorous. Still a little tannin to resolve. Very long and very complex. An aristocratic wine. Excellent.

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CLOS SAINT JACQUES 1995 - to drink 2005-2018 : Good colour. Not as austere but quite full and tannic on the nose. Fullish body. Ripe and sweet. Good acidity. Just a little rough-edged for the moment. More tannic and less sophisticated than the 1996. Fine plus though. It still needs time.

CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1995 - to drink 2006-2020 : Good colour. Rich, spicy, exotic nose. Even a touch of sweetness. Fullish body. Ripe and flamboyant. Slightly red fruity. Good vigorous attack. Very good grip on the follow-through. More to it than the CLOS SAINT JACQUES. Lots of depth. Very fine.

LE CHAMBERTIN 1995 - to drink 2007-2020 : Good colour. Classic nose. Lots of blackcurrant. Much less spicy than the CLOS DE BEZE. This is most impressive. Still very young. Still some tannin to resolve. Concentrated. Very good grip. Lots of substance here. Slightly adolescent still. Very lovely fruit at the end. Very long. Splendid.

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CLOS SAINT JACQUES 1993 - to drink 2005-2025 : Very good colour. Slightly closed-in on the nose but great depth and concentration. Very classy fruit. Lots of lovely wine here. Fullish body. Very ample and concentrated. Excellent grip. Splendid vigour and individuality. This has more dimension and concentration than either the 1996 or the 1996, and more vigour on the finish. Will last for ages. Very fine.

CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1993 - to drink 2006-2030 : Very good colour. Firm nose. Some tannin. Rich but closed. Lots of depth and concentration if slightly adolescent. Richer than the CLOS SAINT JACQUES 1993. Full body. Splendid concentration and lots of dimension here. This is fat, rich, exotic and flamboyant. Some tannin still but these tannins are very well covered. Splendid vigour and depth. Lovely.

LE CHAMBERTIN 1993 - to drink 2006-2030+ : very good colour. Very fine nose. Like the 1995 very clean and clear-cut. Just nothing but very classy fruit and a lot of depth and complexity. Marvellously pure and rich and concentrated. This has everything. A full-bodied wine with a splendid, aristocratic, multi-dimensional character. Very, very long and complex at the end. Grand vin.

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CLOS SAINT JACQUES 1990 - to drink now-2020 : Very good colour. Rich, aromatic nose. A little tannin here still. Fullish body. Still a little tannic on the palate too. Ripe, quite cooked fruit flavours. Good acidity. Plump and ripe. Lots of character and depth. Just about ready. Fine plus.

CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1990 - to drink 2004-2030 : Very good colour. Rather more sophisticated on the nose than the CLOS SAINT JACQUES 1990. Full body. Very good tannins. Splendidly vigorous, rich and once again flamboyant. Excellent grip. Very, very lovely finish. This is very fine indeed.

LE CHAMBERTIN 1990 - to drink 2004-2030 : Very food colour. Great purity, great class on the nose. Full bodied and rich and complex and with absolutely lovely, splendidly abundant fruit. Great grip. Aristocratic. Brilliant. Great wine !


ALLEN MEADOWS
1st Quarter, 2003 - issue 9

Progress Report: Head to Head - Chambertin vs. Clos de Bèze
117 Wines from 1919 to 1999
17th. and 18th. October 2002 Tasting


 

CHAMBERTIN 1949 : Medicinal nose and less than pristine flavors that are sweet, old and soupy. Interesting but I frankly expected more from the wine in this vintage. 88/now. Note : I have had one other bottle that was substantially better though that was more than 10 years ago.

CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1966 : Sweet, old, spicy burg nose with that enveloping, fragrant, utterly seductive quality followed by similar sweet, pure, mouth coating flavors that offer marvelous depth and a certain port-like sweetness on the wonderfully long finish. Delicious, silky and pure velvet. 92/now.

CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1971 : 92.

CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 1972 : Remarkably elegant aromas of entirely secondary aromas with flavors that have started to turn sweet and slightly cloying. There is good acidity on the finish as well as fine complexity but this has seen its best days and it's time to drink up even though it is capable of holding at this level for some years. 89/now to 2010.

CHAMBERTIN 1978 : Very mature burg aromas of smoke, earth, tea and truffle that are remarkable in their purity and finesse. The fine, velvety, almost lacy flavors are elegant, seductive and rich with perfect finishing acidity. Not big but incredibly refined. Extremely impressive. 93/now to 2008.

1985 CHAMBERTIN : Elegant, pure and extremely spicy secondary black fruit notes cut with earth and iron aromas. The flavors are quite forward, round and supple and lacked the intensity one expects from this wine. 87/now. Note : there was a back up bottle of this wine and it showed substantially better with exactly the same nose but with much better vibrancy and richness. 90/now-2010.
1985 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE : The bottle at the tasting was tired and fading and clearly not representative of this wine at its best. 96/now. Note : a bottle drunk in Los Angeles two weeks prior to the tasting was nothing short of sensational with a soaring, very expressive, kaleidoscope of spicy, pure aromas. The flavors are not especially big or powerful but there is so much velvet and luscious complexity that this is utterly seductive. Beautiful juice. 93/now-2010.

CHAMBERTIN 1987 : Lovely perfume and fragrant spice notes trimmed in a touch of leather and the barest hint of sous bois followed by delicious flavors that are just now beginning to thin and the backend is shaped by the still prominent tannins. This is holding well but best drunk up relatively soon. 89/now to 2007.

1988 CHAMBERTIN : There is a bit more of everything here except for more aromatic spice. Bigger, richer and with better intensity plus a bit more mid-palate depth and weight that causes the still noticeable tannins to appear better integrated. Beautiful and I would counsel drinking this over the next few years. 91/now to 2010.
1988 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE : Advanced secondary notes of spice, mature burg aromas and hints of leather and tea introduce rich, pretty, thoroughly delicious, velvety, round flavors underpinned by plenty of ripe tannins on the long, intense finish. This is a fine effort and while the tannins suggest that this could evolve further, I doubt the fruit will hang in there long enough for this to ever completely harmonize. That said, this is completely enjoyable now. 90/now to 2008.

1989 CHAMBERTIN : Hint of alcohol on the nose together with fairly high-toned, pure and incredibly complex and elegant raspberry fruit. The medium weight flavors are sweet and quite intricate displaying grand cru richness and stupendous length. Delicious now and while there are still some tannins to resolve on the finish, this is approaching its apogee. In a word, stunning and yet another in a long line of great Rousseau Chambertins. 94/2004-12.
1989 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE : Substantial, very full and expressive nose of blackberries, pinot extract, game and earth that frame intense, complex, large-scaled flavors, excellent length and grand cru finesse. A very impressive Clos de Bèze that can be enjoyed now though will clearly be better in 3 to 5 years. 92/2004-12.

1990 CHAMBERTIN : Perfumed yet advanced mature Burgundy aromas offering spice, leather, earth and dark fruits that introduce very rich, forward, medium weight flavors and exceptional length. Still tannin but the fruit provided more that adequate balance and there is better than average acidity as well. A lovely wine in its own right that is beginning to drink well though it can certainly be held with confidence. 92/2005-15.
1990 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE : Wonderfully complex aromatics of underbrush, earth, dried herbs and spice notes followed by earthy, moderately structured flavors of real distinction and good length. This has now arrived at its peak as the flavors have rounded out and offer plenty of velvet and spice and while this can certainly be held, it is as good as it's going to get. Very good but short of inspiring and well short of the Chambertin. 89/now to 2010. Note: a magnum of this drunk in January of 2002 was materially better, with more complexity, freshness and better overall balance, rating 93/2008-20.

1991 CHAMBERTIN : Sumptuously rich fruit followed by flavors that are astoundingly complex and powerfully long with magisterial elegance. This is supreme in its expression of that which is Chambertin, offering power without weight yet an intensity and pungency of flavors that must be experienced to be believed. This wine has improved like a rocket since it was released and while there are still solid but ripe finishing tannins, it is slowly approaching its peak. Only a handful of Burgundies ever show this level of quality and this has to be one of the top five wines of the vintage. Reference standard Chambertin that will drink well for years. Be sure to give this as least 30 minutes of air. 96/2008-20.
1991 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE : Classic Clos de Bèze nose that offers an explosion of incredibly complex aromas with a flavor spectrum so broad that is akin to the unfolding of a peacock's tail. Rich, dense and structured with a finish that is almost painfully intense. Still very young, though more expressive today than the Chambertin, and offers a wonderful combination of power and finesse. There are solid tannins but they are completely buffered by all of the mid-palate sap. An elegant, altogether exquisite Clos de Bèze. 94/2006-18.

1993 CHAMBERTIN : Much more reserved than the Bèze though it has finally begun to grudgingly open, displaying reticent black fruit and earth notes with restrained, pure and powerful, extremely rich, almost massive flavors that offer a core of inner sweetness and then does a slow build to an intense, extremely long finish. At the moment, it is not as complex as the Clos de Bèze but since this remains virtually primary in every respect, it may yet catch its stable mate. Brilliant. 94/2008-23.
1993 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE : One of the greatest wines of the 93 vintage with a simply dazzling breadth of aromas. Perfumed and lovely yet at the same time powerful and penetrating followed by detailed, driving and still very fresh flavors that display astounding depth. More obviously structured than the Chambertin yet it finishes with the same slow building, wonderfully persistent length. A completed wine with class and breed to burn that should enable it to age well for years to come. Reference standard Clos de Bèze. 96/2008-18.

1996 CHAMBERTIN : One of the greatest wines of the vintage with one of the most complex and stunning panoply of pinot fruit aromas I have ever experienced. Still completely primary and pristine, with the same vinous purity yet even more elegance and intensity plus notes of ripe earth, bitter chocolate hints and anise. Superbly intense, full, sharply focused, big, broad and deep flavors lead to a finish that simply goes on and on. Classy juice and this rivals the 1993 and 1991 for wines for the decade honors chez Rousseau. Simply awesome. 95/2008-20+.
1996 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE : Incredibly vinous, pure, pretty and exquisite aromas of dark fruit, spices, indeed positively kaleidoscopic in breadth followed by tannic, sappy, intense, remarkably complex flavors whose only deficit is a bit of density. Fresh, long and beautiful and this should age for a very long time as the balance here is first rate. 92/2008-16.

1999 CHAMBERTIN : Fantastically complex with super dense, concentrated fruit blended with an incredible array of spices and flavors that have really beautiful depth, complexity and length. This is not a particularly huge wine but the sheer complexity and class combine to create a simply knock out Chambertin, worthy of every accolade reserved for the very best in Burgundy. Really lovely stuff in a forward style. 93/2009-18.
1999 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE : Pure, earthy and elegant red and black fruit notes with wonderfully rich and long flavors that perhaps lack the compelling power, structure and overall quality of the Chambertin. While not quite as dense of deep, this is exquisitely elegant and the finish lasts for minutes. Excellent rather than profound.
91/2008-16.