Gevrey-Chambertin 2004: A very pinot nose of red berry fruit aromas combined with Gevrey earthy notes merges into supple, forward and delicious middle weight flavors that are sweet and already accessible. This is on the lighter side but really quite pretty.

Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint Jacques 2004: Here there is a bit more of everything, particular aromatic elegance with a really pretty “mélange” of moderately reticent mineral-infused raspberry and pinot fruit aromas that lead to light to barely medium weight flavors that possess excellent intensity, focus and precision and while there is limited mid-palate fat, the balance is impeccable.

Gevrey-Chambertin Cazetiers 2004: This too is exceptionally elegant, indeed more than usual as the nose of the Cazetiers usually runs towards deeper register dark fruit and warm earth aromas but they are on the redder side of the spectrum in 2004 though they do evidence classic game and earth nuances. There is a bit more extract and structure as well as more mid-palate fat, all wrapped in a delicious, persistent and quite finely detailed finish.

Charmes Chambertin 2004: There is a bit more aromatic complexity here and the nose is certainly prettier but somewhat surprisingly, it’s not necessarily any finer nor is there more fruit concentration to the sweet, delicious and generous middle weight flavors that offer reasonably good depth but this is more solid 1er C. quality than a true “grand cru”.

Mazis Chambertin 2004: Here the nose is more deeply pitched with earth, game, iron, leather and underbrush aromas adding nuance to the bright red berry fruit notes that continue onto the very supple. Indeed almost light flavors and there is slightly more structure than can be found with the Charmes. I like the complexity and precision as well as the overall sense of harmony but this is on the lighter side compared to its usual weight.

Clos de la Roche 2004: Earth and brush understones mix with a really pretty and spicy mix of red and dark berry fruit aromas nuanced with anise and violet notes that continue onto the the surprisingly forward and accessible middle weight flavors underpinned by very refined tannins and solid persistence. This too is on the lighter side and trades more on finesse than power though the finish has good pop to it.

Ruchottes Chambertin 2004: This is a huge step up in quality with its deeply pitched nose of earthy, violets and truffles trimmed in a subtle touch of wood spice leads to cool, classy and refined middle weight flavours underpinned by a firm minerality that gives both lift and punch to the sparkling finish. There is a real energy here and dazzling length and while it’s by no means a big wine, it is an admirably harmonious and pure example.

Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques 2004: Much brighter and higher register red fruit and mineral infused aromas of surpassing complexity introduce delicious, intense and much firmer medium full flavours that culminate in a subtly persistent finish. This is refined and exceptionally pure and while it is on the lighter side, the focus, detail and precision is extremely impressive. Like the Ruchottes, this trades on elegance and refinement yet there is no lack of flavour authority despite the absence of raw size and weigh.

Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2004: Like the Ruchottes compared to the prior wines, this is an immediate and clear step up in quality and breed with a densely fruit and superbly complex nose of spice, earth, ripe red fruit aromas, leather and underbrush that leads to rich, supple, elegant and pure flavours where the structure arrives all at once on the seriously long finish. This is not a big Bèze by the usual Rousseau standards yet the explosive finish and the outstanding depth suggest that this will age well and hold for much longer.

Chambertin 2004: The difference between Chambertin and Clos de Bèze is sharply etched in 2004 as this is bigger, richer and more powerful though less elegant and with a more limited range of spices specifically and aromatic breadth in general. The medium full flavours are tight, precise and very pure with extraordinarily good punch and precision, all wrapped in a firm, dusty and linear finish. I particularly like the mouth coating quality of the flavours as there is ample dry extract here, which serves to perfectly buffer the firmly tannic spine. Outstanding stuff and while not a truly great Rousseau Chambertin, it’s knocking on the door.