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Now that Charles
Rousseau is 79 years old, his son, Eric,
is taking charge of one of Burgundy's most
traditional estates and making crucial changes.
"I look for the same style of wine, with
the same finesse, but perhaps with some
more concentration," says Eric Rousseau,
45. In the recently upgraded winery, grapes
are handled more gently than in the past
to preserve aromas and flavors. With air
conditioning installed last year, he can
now better control wine temperatures, from
fermentation through aging. He also delays
malolactic, or secondary, fermentation,
in an effort to make the wines taste "fatter".
Experiments with crop thinning that started
in 1992 proved so successful that Domaine
Armand Rousseau has applied the method to
all of its 34.6 acres of vineyards since
1999.. "We see a big difference ; there
is less dilution in the wines," says Rousseau.
"The grapes are riper : we gain about 1
percent potential alcohol from the green
harvest."
Eric's grandfather,
Armand, was a pioneer for estate bottling
in Burgundy, back in the 1930s, and one
of the first to sell wines in the United
States after Prohibition. After succeeding
him, Charles introduced stainless-steel
fermentation tanks in Burgundy. Today, the
domaine makes 5,800 cases a year and farms
20 acres of grands crus, from which it makes
2,500 cases.
Most wines see little new oak.
The Gevrey Chambertin Les Cazetiers (85-89
points) offers black fruit and
a surprising silkiness of tannins.
Only 5 percent new oak us used to age the
medium-bodied, elegant Clos
de la Roche (85-89), which was
made from 45-year-old vines and shows raspberry
and spicy notes.
The Gevrey-Chambertin
Lavaux St.-Jacques (85-89) is
an authentic-tasting premier cru without
artifices and has a silky midpalate.
New oak accounts for only 10 percent of
Ruchottes-Chambertin
Clos des Ruchottes (90-94) an
ethereal Pinot Noir with loads of fresh
red berry character, spice and wonderful
length.
The medium-bodied Mazis-Chambertin
(90-94) is a marvel of finesse,
both powerful and delicate. One hundred
percent new oak is used to age the following
three wines. Chambertin-Clos
de Bèze (90-94) is rich
and thick, with lots of black fruit and
spicy oak.
Chambertin (90-94)
is complex, with black cherries and mineral,
showing soft and supple tannins - the sort
of harmony you expect from a top grand cru.
And the amazing Gevrey-Chambertin
Clos St.-Jacques (90-94), a premier
cru wine, rivals the grands crus that I
tasted from barrel ; it is loaded with spice
and rich fruit, with a long finish.
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