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2003 vintage - Vegetative
cycle - Harvest - Vinification
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After a cold and snowy
winter, the sun started to appear at the beginning of
March and never left !
The months of February and March were very dry with no
rain at all (40 to 50% less than normal).
There was some spring frost at the beginning of April,
but the Côte de Nuits did not suffer from it compared
to the vineyards situated in the south of Burgundy.
Then, weeks followed weeks in a climate that had never
been seen in Burgundy, with sun shining every day, no
rain, very few showers, and with very high temperatures,
in spring as well as in summer. One had to go back to
the end of 19th. Century to find similar weather !! Even
the 1947 and 1976 records were beaten !!
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Therefore, the growth
of the vine was extremely fast from April onward, and
at the flowering, around 25th. May, we planned to start
the harvest very early, at the beginning of September,
with a production slightly smaller than average.
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The months of June,
July and August were very hot, with temperatures around
40°C, with no refreshing air at night, and most of
all with no rain whatsoever. At the beginning of July,
we started to note some grapes burnt by the sun while
the "véraison" had already started.
From 15th August, everything went very fast. The grapes
had reached maturity and the "ban des vendanges"
was decided for Tuesday 19th. August !!!
We started the harvest on 23rd August, with our regular
team of pickers. Temperatures were still very high, so
we only picked in the morning, from 6.30 am to around
1.00 pm not to bring into the winery grapes which were
too warm. The air conditioning system worked at its maximum
capacity and each vat was also refrigerated individually.
The first analyses of the grapes revealed a low acidity
and a maturity irregular in the different vineyards. Actually,
the extremely high temperatures tend to stop the maturity
of some grapes, but the potential alcoholic strength was
promising.
An important selection was made in the vineyards to eliminate
both burnt and dried berries. Therefore, the 2003 production
was 30 to 40% less that a normal year, with yielding in
juice even smaller, 40 to 50% less.
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Once the grapes were
in the winery, we had to watch very carefully the development
of bacteria favoured by the low acidity and pay even more
attention to the temperatures in the vats, while limiting
the 'triturage' to prevent oxidation.
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The vinification was
short, about 10 days, and now that the wines are in barrels,
we are surprisingly pleased by the quality of this vintage,
so particular. Quantities are tiny, the smallest ever
recorded, but quality is there.
We could notice a good colour extraction and a good concentration
due to the thick skins and the extremely low yields in
juice.
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A most particular
vintage which will remain in memories of future generations
of Burgundians !
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In Autumn 2004. after a racking at
the beginning of September, the vintage was presenting
itself quite favourably, and especially very different
from what we had thought it would be year before. Though
low in acidity, all the wines showed an unbelievable freshness
and a great finesse ! We could also note a very beautiful
concentration of small red fruit, with 'griotte' cherry
dominating, no over ripeness, and, quite surprising, the
terroir specifications are very present in each appellation
with beautiful minerality.
A surprising vintage…to follow closely
!
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